St Bartholomew The Great Church, City of London

St Bartholomew The Great Church, City of London

Visited August 2021

In the heart of Smithfields, by the market and Barts Hospital is St Bartholomew the Great, the oldest surviving parish church in London, dating back to the time of Henry I in the 12th century. It was founded by Prince Rahere, whose (later) tomb is still in the church. Although damaged through the centuries, including in the dissolution of the priories in 1539, much of the original building has survived and subsequent restorations have, for the most part, been faithful to the original. It's easily recognisable from its many appearances on tv and film, from Shakespeare in Love to the League of Gentlemen.

There is a small remainder of the burial ground outside with a few intact headstones, but the main memorials survive inside, with a splendid array of carved memorial stones around the walls from the 16th century onwards. The lighting in some parts of the church is quite dark, but most memorials are well lit and legible. Unlike many City churches, St Barts is open every day for visitors as well as for prayer. The Romanesque architecture and atmospheric interior make it well worth a visit as well as the memorials, and there's also a selection of contemporary art, including an incredible Damien Hirst of the flayed St Bartholomew, which really have to be seen.

Tomb of the founder of Bartholomew the Great, Prince Rahere

Church in the Wood, Hollington, East Sussex

The Church in the Wood (St Leonard's Church), East Sussex

Visited July 2021

The Church in the Wood, or to give it it's formal name of St Leonard's Church, is in Hollington, near Bexhill on Sea in East Sussex.

There has been a church here since at least the 11th century, with that one being replaced in the 13th century. Parts of the current church are Medieval, although of course the Victorians got their hands on it and did lots of "restoration". Sadly the church was locked when we were there, but the churchyard alone was well worth a visit. As the name suggests, it's in the middle of a wood (there's a handy car park nearby), and the cemetery feels very wild and remote. Graves are mostly Victorian to modern, but in the trees and with butterflies and bees flying around between the flowers it felt old and remote, like a part of the past hiding in the middle of the present. If you look closely, there are some gravestones going back to the 17th and 18th centuries near the church, but they take some hunting out.

The churchyard backs on to more ancient woodland, and it is all a nature reserve in the borough of Hastings, so hopefully its secluded and peaceful nature will survive for generations to come. If you're in the area, do pay this place a visit. You won't regret it!

Udny Cemetery and Morthouse, Aberdeenshire

Udny Green Cemetery and Mort House, Aberdeenshire

Visited August 2021

This village cemetery in  northeast Scotland is notable particularly for the feature just inside the main gate, a circular mort house. Built in the early 19th century in response to threats of bodysnatching, the mort house was used for the storage of bodies before they were buried, to ensure they were suitably decomposed before they went in the ground, and thus less appealing to grave robbers or 'resurrection men'.

This circular mort house had a rather unique revolving platform inside, so bodies should do a full revolution before coming out ready for burial - they could remain inside for up to 3 months. Probably best not to think about that too much! 

The building was only in use for a few years, as it was built in 1832 but had fallen out of use by 1836 - the passing of the Anatomy Act 1832 meant that it was obsolete just as it was being built. It's now Grade B listed, and occasionally open to visitors.

The rest of the cemetery is a mix of Victorian to modern graves, a few with some eroded memento mori on them, and aside from one dog walker it was a quiet place on the edge of the village.

The Long Barrow at All Cannings, Wiltshire

The Long Barrow at All Cannings, Wiltshire

Visited July 2021

A modern long barrow for the interment of cremated remains, built in 2014 in the style of a Neolithic long barrow. Of course, as there are contemporary remains deposited within the barrow it is not open to visitors, but you can park at the end of a farm track and walk up to, over and around the barrow which sits on the edge of a field in the Wiltshire countryside. A visit won't take very long at all, but as a reminder of how ancient practices can inform our contemporary life, and burial monuments become part of the living landscape, it's well worth stopping to see it.

St Peter's Church, Tandridge

St Peter's Church, Tandridge, Surrey

Visited October 2021

The church on this site dates back to around the 11th century, although there may have been an earlier church on the site. The church was restored by Sir George Gilbert Scott in the 1870s, and retains work by him as well as much earlier stone and woodwork.  Sadly it was locked when we visited so we couldn't see inside. 

Just inside the lychgate is an incredible old yew, the Tandridge Yew which is possibly over 1000 years old.

Some gravestones in this countryside churchyard date back to the 18th century, although most are 19th to 20th century in date, and memorial stones are still being added this century. 

One of the most impressive memorials is the 1872 grave of Caroline Scott, wife of Sir George Gilbert Scott who was one of the key architects during the Victorian period. Gilbert Scott designed her Italian Renaissance style altar tomb himself.

Grave of Caroline Scott

Top of grave of Caroline Scott

Hither Green Cemetery, London (2020)

 Hither Green Cemetery, London

Visited December 2020

As noted on my previous visit in January 2016, there is not a lot to commend this cemetery to the casual visitor - it's a fairly flat, manicured space with very little in the way of impressive memorials. The dissenter's chapel remains in a state of disrepair and is fenced off, with no sign of work taking place. At the other end of the cemetery, in the modern area burials still take place as this is a working cemetery and crematorium. Perhaps I will try to come back here in summer, and see the difference as my visits have only been in the depths of winter so far!